Once we secured the complete hike permit, everything got real in a hurry. We emptied the rental car of all our gear and began sorting. We did not feel rushed because our first site was not very far up the trail. We could easily make it to pyramid creek campsite by dark. In order to get the complete permit we had to take a couple awkwardly short days at the beginning of the hike. We were confident we had enough food, but wow, did it weigh a lot. When we finally got everything sorted and got on the trail our packs were very heavy. The first few miles clockwise out of Longmire are uphill through densely forested terrain. The health and beauty of the forest took our minds off the heavy load. It wasn't long before we got to one of the only creek crossings with out a bridge or log. Just past the crossing was the campsite. We were the first ones to arrive and had the pick. It looked like there were only 3-4 tent sites. It's a beautiful site where the park service has left pieces of trees for a cooking table. We wished that we had hiked a short distance up the trail to find a clear creek rather than draw water from the glacial run off. That was the only time we used glacial water during the trip. Our food bags were so heavy that I tied them up on the bear pole rather than use the pole with the hook. 

      Devil's den is usually the first site on many itineraries. It's a big site with many more spots than pyramid creek. There is also a huge group site just up the trail from the individual sites.  Once, again we were the first ones to arrive. It was not much more than a couple miles past Pyramid creek. We chose a site and got set up. There is a very nice waterfall and water source right at the site. Soon we realized that all the guidebooks and online accounts regarding insects at Devil's den were true. Strange, because scarcely noticed any at Pyramid creek. At Devils den it was time to don the head nets. We spend the afternoon watching the flies on the tent screen and pondering the what the average grade would be on the trail. Which seemed like a possible calculation if we new the total elevation change and diameter of the loop. We definitely worried about completing the loop trip with the weight of our packs. By evening most of the campsites were occupied and at least one group was in the group site.

    This was our first hike that took us up close to mountain. Rainier did not disappoint. The scale and size of the volcano became evident on this stretch of trail. We found ourselves at one of the high points on the trail at 5500 ft. Almost as high as Spray park and the Summerland area. It was close enough to observe the transition of the Glaciated areas to forest. The Tahoma glacier is forming the South Puyallup river in this area with waterfalls and cascades. A great lunch spot. Also on this section was our first crossing of a Wonderland suspension bridge at Tahoma creek. This was a picturesque spot. Other hikers were taking pictures and offered to take ours. After chatting a bit we learned that that this was a popular stretch of trail for day hikes. That made complete sense with the amazing scenery on this section of trail. We hiked off the ridge and down into the South Puyallup river campsite for the evening. This campsite has a display of basalitic lava columns similar to the Devil's postpile. A trip to the potty requires a walk past this inspiring geological phenomenon. 

​    The day started off ascending up to the ridge between South Puyallup and North Puyallup campsites. Although this day did not take as high and close to the mountain as the previous day, it did take us past one of the most scenic lakes on the entire trail. St. Andrews lake can't be missed because the trail travels along its shoreline. The entire shoreline is worth a picture, but when we got to a small peninsula jutting out into the lake that turned out to be the lunch spot. Another group of hikers was lunching and swimming nearby and we got another picture of ourselves standing by the lake. The scenery was outstanding as we made our way past the Klaptache site and down to North Puyallup campsite. It was a little confusing once we arrived at the North Puyallup area. The regular campsite is across the river and the group site is on the clockwise approach before the river. They share the same potty at the group site. So, it is a hike from the regular site. The regular site is a bit awkward as it runs parallel to the old road and the sites are in a line. Meaning that it is necessary to walk through each site when entering or leaving the campsite. 

     This was our first longer day of hiking and it was just the right elevation change to accommodate a good pace through out the day. It was reminiscent of the our first days hike, with deep shaded forest and many streams. Although, as we approached the Golden lakes campsite and ranger cabin, we crossed a somewhat dry ridge that may have been a burn area. Our lunch spot was Golden lake cabin and campsite. It was also a stop for other hikers moving counter clockwise. We were able to get some trail info from these hikers. Apparently, the South Mowich river site had many trees down. We found out that there were plenty of sites there and not too worry. Another group was filtering water from the largest lake next to the trail and we did the same. Two unusual things we encountered on this hike were bandit hikers and a windfall or two. It was awkward to encounter a group of hikers that clearly did not have a permit and were going to disperse camp anywhere. Also, on the way to the campsite we encountered a pretty severe windfall. Maybe this area was prone to this sort of thing? Because what we had heard about South Mowich river campsite was completely correct. Trees were down everywhere and a number of sites were inaccessible. There is cool trail shelter and still plenty of improvised sites. We took one right by the river. 

      It was a pleasure to camp on the bank of the South Mowich river. We were able to do a bit of bathing in the river and dry our clothes in the sunshine along the open river bank. The river is glacial and silty, so not a good source for drinking water. A better source is down the trail a bit to a clear shallow creek with good spots for filtering. We were catching on to the fact that clear streams are abundant around Mt. Rainier. That morning it was mostly an uphill hike to Mowich lake from the campsite. There was very nice waterfall along the trail as we approached the lake. We were hoping to talk to a ranger at Mowich lake for any trail updates. It turned out that the ranger cabin was only open very sporadically. A sign on the door had hours. As we checked out the area we found that the food bin was completely stocked with left overs from other hikers. There were two full bottles of whisky! along with plenty of food for the taking. Our only bear encounter happened a few minutes later as mom and her cubs were foraging next to the cabin. I had the camera out and was able to get a couple pictures. This bear definitely appeared to a bit different than our Michigan black bears. It was a very photogenic bear. The trip from the Mowich ranger cabin over to the Eagles Roost was fairly quick. Like the previous day we had two unusual encounters on the trail over to Eagles Roost. The first was with a snowboarder walking the trail with his snowboard in his boots. Apparently, the snow was still accessible up in Spray park. That took us by surprise on a steamy day in August. The next and more telling encounter came when we stopped to chat with a park service person who we thought was a ranger at first. Instead this person who was carrying a large external frame back and sweating a lot. He had just "serviced" the toilet at Eagles Roost. On his packframe were plastic 5 gallon pails that held the contents of the toilet. Unbelievably, Rainier park actually is that conscientious regarding toilet maintenance. This service, we learned is not universal across national parks. It made me appreciate the uniqueness of the park and Wonderland trail even more. Plus, of course we appreciated the clean toilet with a new seat when we got to Eagles Roost.

   The Eagle's Roost campsite had plenty of level sites. Perhaps one of them could have a sunset view? We chose one a bit closer to the potty, which was a good hike down a hillside. This was a big day for us as we were set to hike up through Spray Park. Nearly everyone we had met on the trail mentioned that we were in for some great hiking and scenery. It was a very warm morning as we set out. The hike is mostly uphill into the the Spray Park area. So, it was great to have the amazing scenery to offset the physically demanding hike. Although, it is not the high point on the trail we crossed a bunch of snowfields. Some slippery spots, but no falls and no steep self arrest stuff. It was so warm it seemed like we could see steam coming off the mountain. I tried hard to see where the snowboarder from the previous day had carved his turns, but maybe too much melting already? The most difficult part of the hike was ahead of us. We had heard from other hikers back at the Golden lakes stop that the descent out of Spray park would be difficult. So much so, that it impacts people decisions regarding which direction is best to take it on, clockwise or counterclockwise. Fortunately, we had eaten enough of our food to lighten our backs a bit. The descent is full of steep rocks that create large downhill steps. This goes on for quite a while. The trek poles held up to the strain and we made it down okay. Another suspension bridge greeted us as we crossed the Carbon river and headed up along the glacier. This trek along the glacier was full of interesting views of the melt water flowing out from under the glacier. For some reason, probably the 90 degree temps, this final part of hike up to Mystic lake was one of the most physically demanding hikes for us on the entire trail. We stopped at least once to filter water and got in fairly late to a crowded campsite at Mystic lake. We took one of the last remaining sites and got more water from the stream that flows through the site. No need to hike back up the hill to the lake for water. 

   Mystic lake was probably the busiest campsite that we stayed at entire trip. It was due to so many groups of hikers at the site. There were a couple of bear poles and both were well used. We got an early start because we hoped to get to Sunrise to visit the store and have a couple treats and pick up some extra tylenol or ibuprofen. The first part of the hike took us along a second glacier similar to the previous days hike. After leaving the glacier we headed up and over a pretty nice pass, Skyscraper pass? After crossing the pass we entered a different area of the park. We could see trails around the valleys and up Skyscraper mountain. There now plenty of day hikers too. Clearly we were in the area where Sunrise was the access point. Some goats were grazing in the fields to the side of the trail. It did not take us long to get down to Sunrise. With treats and pain reliever in mind we quickly found a spot and set up camp. There is a small still lake next to the camp area, shadow lake, that could be suitable for water. We were heading to the store, so we just grabbed our bladders and headed for the water spigot. Unfortunately, the store was closed. The paper sign on the door listed the days a week that store was open. This is a bit different from the situation at Longmire where it is more a 7 day a week schedule with late hours for the various services. At least we were able to get a lot of water and have a visit from a big buck in our site during dinner.

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